PARTY REPORT - Carnaval Rio 2026
reporting directly from the front lines of the biggest (and best) party on earth
Happy (belated) Lunar New Year to all who celebrate! I rang in the year of the horse last week in the best possible way: surrounded by friends and strangers and covered in glitter and sticky with beer. I feel more prosperous already. I’ve been MIA for the past couple of weeks, but it’s been for a good reason. I’m slowly coming off the high of Carnaval, and I’m sure I’ll be finding glitter and sand in the most unexpected places for weeks to come. Emily Sundberg said that 2026 is the year of party reporting1, and in an attempt to share the joy and help my friends live vicariously through me, I’ll be taking you through the best week of my life (‘till next year).
Party Prep
Whilst some of my friends started warming up for Carnaval on the first weekend of January, I was braving an unexpected snowstorm that cast a white cover over many major European cities. I stifled my FOMO with the knowledge that in a few weeks I’d be joining them on the streets of Rio. My actual prep started two weeks before Carnaval when I got to Brazil. My brother’s godmother (whom I also call Dinda because I love her dearly and am a little greedy) is a stylist for TV Globo, Brazil’s largest TV network. My mother and I joined her at Saara, a street market in the centre of Rio, where you can find anything and everything, and Dinda Teresa was our guide and Carnaval fairy godmother all in one. The only thing I’d packed for Carnaval was a pair of beat-up Converse, so I loaded my basket up with sparkly tops, hot pants, fishnets in every colour of the rainbow, as well as headbands and feathers and loud earrings to distract from my lack of outfit planning. Knowing the temperatures could reach 40 degrees, I took less-is-more quite literally, and kept my clothing minimal as a survival strategy.
Rules to Live By and the Cardinal Sins of Carnaval
Listen, I don’t claim to be an expert here. Whilst I was born in Brazil, and will tell people I’m almost carioca thanks to my entire extended family being from Rio and Summers spent at the beach, I moved abroad as a child, and this was my first proper time back for Carnaval. I had the perfect week, but I wouldn’t chalk it all up to beginner’s luck: I listened to those who were older and wiser and learned from their mistakes. In case you’re thinking of going, these are the dos and don’ts in my book
Do
Wear comfortable shoes → I don’t care if you’re Carrie Bradshaw herself, this is not the time for heels (you’ll be standing all day and doing upwards of 20,000 steps) or your new Havaianas (the ground is covered in questionable fluids and someone will undoubtedly step on your feet)
Eat a proper breakfast → you’ll be drinking all day every day for four days straight. As someone who has run a marathon before, let me tell you, this was harder. Carnaval is an extreme sport, so act like an athlete. A decent meal is not a guarantee during the day (though I’d recommend taking a proper lunch break, avoiding fried foods and trying to get a healthy dose of carbs, protein and fibre in at dinner), so your best bet is making sure you eat enough before you leave the house to get you through the day. My friend’s go-to was the same thing she always eats before a long run. I was making eggs and a green juice at 5 AM. Again, this is not for the weak.
Party responsibly → this is a marathon, not a sprint, you don’t want to collapse on Day 1 and end up DNFing the weekend. Make sure you’re having fun, and that everyone with you can enjoy themselves. Drink water, wear sunscreen, bring a fan and try to get out of the sun for a little bit.
Get up early → the best blocos are the early morning ones (in my opinion). Cariocas are always late for everything, but Carnaval is the only time of year when they’re early. It’s not as hot, people haven’t been drinking all day, and you can get closer to the musicians.
Bring cash → the only thing I didn’t do and wish I did. Having to faff around with a phone or a card after three drinks is not fun. I only brought one card and decreased the spending limit in case I lost it, but cash would have made things easier.
Know when to leave → this is an art year-round, but especially during Carnaval, the vibes can change very quickly. I felt very safe the entire time, and most of the people I know who have had bad experiences all said they should have left earlier. Depending on where you are in the city, you don’t want to stick around after the blocos are over or once it gets dark.
Go with the flow → plan your first bloco of the day and then see where the day takes you. You might bump into people you know or make new friends along the way. This is not the time to stress about an itinerary.
Don’t
Keep your phone in your pocket or bag → if you have a Celular do Bandido even better, leave the real one at home. There’s a lot of petty theft in crowded areas, so a money belt inside your clothes is the best bet for your phone, credit card and ID. Use it to call your Uber, take the occasional photo and use your bag for things like sunscreen, gum, and a fan.
Meet your friends there → you can’t and you won’t. There are too many people, meet at the metro or go together.
Make prolonged eye contact with someone you don’t want to kiss → people have told me I have no game, and whilst I normally wouldn’t disagree, my Carnaval alter ego was pulling left, right and centre. I take little credit; everyone is a little slutty this time of year, and making eye contact and raising your eyebrows is sufifcient invitation.
Do late nights → my one exception for this is if you’re going to Sapucaí. There are loads of parties during Carnaval, but I’d argue the best experiences are during the day on the streets. You can club year-round, but Carnaval de Rua only happens once a year. The key to surviving all four days is making sure you’re getting enough sleep.
Leave anyone behind → safety is key: arrive together, leave together. Nobody does anything alone; you’ll lose them in the crowd. If you’re in a big group, adopt a buddy system.
Blocos — glitter, sweat, singing crowds and kissing all the time
These are moving street parties; there’s one for every taste. Big ones, little ones, techno ones, jazzy ones. My favourite was Céu na Terra in Santa Teresa, and it was 1000% worth getting up at 5 am for. Boi Tolo was unlike anything I’ve ever seen before (don’t believe me? Read all about it in The New York Times). If you hate crowds, sweating, and getting up early, then don’t bother, but if you can handle those with a smile on your face (and maybe some Samba at your feet thanks to the drink in your hand), then you’re in for the experience of a lifetime. If you’re lucky enough to find a friend who matches your vibes, hold on to them (a special thanks to Ju, Lau and my CarnaSoulmate Lu).
Sapucaí — Watching the sunrise at the Apoteose is a religious experience
For the people who were obsessed with the movie Rio, this is a must. I grew up watching the desfiles (parades) on TV, but seeing it up close is an entirely different experience. I’ve always had a huge appreciation for Brazilian culture, and am especially grateful to my mom, who made sure to keep that alive even after we moved abroad. In what has been described as the biggest spectacle on earth, twelve Escolas de Samba create a parade around honouring a specific theme or historical figure. Portela and Mangueira are my mom and dad’s favourites, respectively, and also the most decorated schools. I was lucky enough to see them both, along with Imperatriz and Acadêmicos de Niteroi, on Sunday night. I watched the cars and the dancers and sang along with the band into the wee hours of the night, and after the last group had made its way across the Sambodromo, I jumped the fence along with thousands of other people to follow them and watch the sunrise after what I’m sure will go down as one of the best days of my life
Glossary
Carioca — someone from the city of Rio de Janeiro (different from Fluminense, which is someone from the state of the same name)
Celular do Bandido — the thief’s phone, AKA the phone you bring out with you. Pull out your retired, cracked iPhone 7, delete all banking apps and make sure to give your friends your burner number. Tell everyone the bad camera quality adds to the aesthetic.
if anyone at The Guest List is reading this, please please please let me party for you
Whattt are the odds this is on my feed— I was also at camarote mar on Sunday! Unreal experience and amazing reporting!!!
This look so fun wow!!! Excellent party reporting